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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned high-end names. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The accolade has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.